Pets faq : Dogs, Cats, Dogs and Cats, Birds, Rabbits, Rats, Snakes, Ferrets,

• Why should I have tests done prior to anesthesia on my older pet, even if the anesthetic procedure is a minor one?

Although age is not a disease, with age, important organs of the body such as the heart, kidneys, and liver are more likely to be in less than optimal condition. While anesthesia is fairly safe under most circumstances, sub optimally functioning organs can seriously increase the risks of anesthesia. Certain conditions may warrant additional monitoring or care during anesthesia, others may call for correction of the problem prior to anesthesia, while some may contraindicate general anesthesia altogether. While not all conditions are detected on routine screening tests, by doing these tests prior to anesthesia, you have taken the reasonable steps to prevent anesthesia related complications as much as possible.

• I understand that ferrets can have a lot of medical problems. When should I have blood work done on my pet ferret? He seems fine to me.

As you correctly understand, ferrets have a tendency to have a number of significant medical problems. These include a variety of cancers and heart disease. An annual physical examination with a diagnostic workup including bloodwork is recommended to attempt to uncover some of these problems prior to them becoming clinical problems. We recommend annual physical examinations for ferrets and annual bloodwork starting at two years of age.

• My ferret keeps scratching herself and has a hair loss. What do you suggest?

The most common reason that a ferret will be pruritic (itchy) and have hair loss is due to a condition called adrenal gland disease. For reasons yet unknown, many ferrets will develop tumors in their adrenal glands (a small gland in front of the kidneys) that produce an excessive amount of male and female hormones. Some of the external changes that may be noticed include loss of hair on the ferret's body (often involving the tail only), and pruritus. The hair loss may come and go for years. In females, the vulva may be swollen and enlarged. A diagnostic workup is necessary to diagnose this condition and surgery or an injectable medication can be used to treat the condition.

• I have heard that some ferrets will have a reaction to vaccination. Should I still vaccinate my ferrets?

Vaccine reactions can occur in any species of animal following the administration of a vaccine. In ferrets, vaccine reactions are an occasional occurrence. Vaccine reactions can occur in ferrets following administration of either the distemper or rabies vaccine, which are both approved for ferrets. Affected ferrets may become weak and collapse or vomit. These reactions usually occur within 30 minutes following vaccination of a ferret. As with any vaccine reaction, immediate veterinary attention to the ferret is required to prevent serious complications. In our hospital, we recommend that ferrets remain in the hospital for observation for at least 30 minutes following vaccination. If your ferret does have a vaccine reaction, you should discuss with your veterinarian options for vaccination in the future.

• What age do you recommend for first vaccinations of a puppy?

Most puppies leave the mother dog to go to their new home between 6 and 8 weeks of age. If this is the situation with your new puppy, then vaccinations should begin at 8 weeks of age. In our clinic, we recommend at the first visit, and examination by a doctor, a stool check for internal parasites or worms, the Bordatella vaccine, which protects against kennel cough, the Coronavirus vaccine that protects against a gastrointestinal virus, and the DHPP (Distemper) vaccine that protects against the viral diseases of distemper and parvovirus.

• Should I neuter my dog?

We strongly suggest that dogs that are not used for breeding be neutered. Even if you are planning on breeding your dog, when you obtain the puppies you want, then for the pet's best interest neutering should be considered.

Reasons for neutering include population control, behavioral and health reasons. Even if you keep your dog in a fenced yard, accidents and events do occur that allow for the pet to escape. In these instances, your male dog may impregnate a female dog, and more unwanted puppies would be welcomed into the world. Neutering your pet will prevent this senseless loss of life due to unwanted puppies or dogs on our planet.

Some male dogs have genetic or learned aggressive tendencies that may be manifested in biting and extreme territorial behavior. Neutering these individuals early in life may be helpful in minimizing this aggression. Once aggressive behavior is learned and practiced, neutering is still recommended but the likelihood of improvement of unwanted behavioral traits is less likely.

Last but not least, it appears that neutering dogs when they are young can be helpful in preventing prostate problems when your pet is older. The most common prostate problems that are seen are cancer of the prostate and severe prostatic infections. Neutering when dogs are young appears to prevent these later in life problems in the vast majority of dogs.

• At what age should I spay or neuter my dog?

We recommend spaying and neutering dogs between 3 and 4 months of age. As dogs first come into heat between 5 and 10 months of age, it is strongly recommended to neuter them prior to the first heat cycle. This is because there is a greater chance of developing mammary (breast) cancer later in life if a dog is allowed to come into heat. Actually, it is almost a 300% chance less of developing mammary cancer. There is still some benefit for the next two heat cycles if the pet is spayed, but to a lesser degree.

The criterion for neutering males is that the testicles be descended. This can occur around 8 weeks of age, or later. Generally speaking, if the testicles are not descended by four months of age, they may not descend. We use the age of six months as the time that if the testicles have not descended, they most likely will not descend. At that time, an abdominal surgery is required to remove the non-descended testicle as it may develop into cancer in the abdomen.

• How often should I bathe my dog?

The frequency that dogs need to bathed depends on a number of factors. Some dogs essentially keep themselves clean and never really need to be bathed. Others seem to love to get their hair coats dirty and may require bathing on a frequent basis. Other pets may have skin problems and require bathing as frequently as daily or every other day. Whatever the frequency of the bathing, high quality shampoos and conditioners especially formulated for dogs should be used.

• Should I give my dog the vaccine for kennel cough even if he will not be kenneled or boarded?

Assuming your pet does not ever leave your house and yard, the chance of exposure of kennel cough is minimal. But as many pets are part of the family, and go on family outings, walks down the street or to the dog park, the chance of exposure to the causative agents of kennel cough which are airborne, is increased. Therefore, the vast majority of dogs should have the kennel cough vaccine, called Bordatella, even it is not planned to board the vaccine. The vaccine used at All Pets Medical Centre can be given as early as three weeks of age.

My dog's teeth have accumulated some brown material, and the breath smells bad, so I want my pet's teeth cleaned. I've seen some ads for no anesthesia dentals elsewhere. Why do you require dentals to be done under anesthesia?

An animal's teeth cannot be thoroughly cleaned without anesthesia. Thorough removal of accumulated calcified and soft tartar require scraping and flushing the teeth surface, grooves, and around the gumline, which is nearly impossible in an awake animal, even a very cooperative one. Additionally, when the surfaces of the teeth are scrubbed with metal instruments, small scratches are left on the enamel. These scratches will accumulate material faster and tartar returns much faster. These scratches need to be polished out with a rotary dental tool, which feels funny and the sounds scare a pet that is completely awake.

• My dog has been scooting a lot lately. What could make him do that?

Scooting may be due to a number of different causes including: internal parasites, impacted anal glands, infected anal glands, rectal tumors/polyps, and allergies. The most common of these would be due to the anal glands being full and uncomfortable to the dog. The dog thus scoots in an attempt to remove the material that is making him uncomfortable. It would be recommended that you take your pet to a veterinarian to determine which of the many causes is affecting your pet.

• What is the drug I hear about on TV called Rimadyl really for and should my dog be on it?

Rimadyl is a rather new oral non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drug that is licensed and safe for use in dogs only. The drug is indicated for the relief of pain and inflammation associated with osteoarthritis in dogs. It is also commonly used following surgery to offer pain relief at home following the in-clinic procedure. One of the main benefits of this type of medication is that it causes minimal gastrointestinal tract irritation as can occur with other non-steroidal anti-inflammatory agents such as aspirin. Whether your pet would benefit from Rimadyl, would be a decision you should make with your pet's veterinarian.

• Can I give my dog aspirin?

We strongly recommend that dogs not be given aspirin for pain or fever. It has been shown that even a single tablet can lead to severe gastrointestinal ulceration and bleeding. If you feel that your pet is in pain or has a fever, it would be best to take the pet into your veterinarian for a complete physical examination and consultation.

• When can I take my new puppy to the dog park?

We recommend that your adorable new puppy remain in either your own house or yard until the vaccine series for parvovirus is complete. This may vary with the clinic or veterinarian, but generally would be after the last vaccine is given at four or five months of age.

• How long should I keep my puppy on puppy food?

Recommendations vary with food manufacturers and veterinarians on this question. As a general rule though, small breeds of dogs should remain on puppy food through the first year of life, and large breeds of dogs should remain on puppy food for the first year and one half of life. Medium sized dogs should be on puppy food for at least one year. After the initial time feeding puppy food, the pet should be slowly switched to a maintenance dog food.

• What are those little rice-like things in my pet's poop?

Those little rice-like structures are actually part of a longer worm in your pet's intestinal tract, called a tapeworm. The worm breaks into little segments that you and I may see in the pet's stool or on the hairs around the anus. As the segments may be only intermittently passed, seeing the segments one day and not the next do not mean that the problem is gone. It simply means that at that time the worm is not breaking into small segments and being passed in the pet's stool. Deworming medication and flea control should be administered to resolve the problem.

• Where do tapeworms come from?

Tapeworms are transmitted to dogs and cats through ingestion of a flea when the pet is licking and cleaning itself. Once inside the pet, the tapeworm egg, which is inside the flea, develops inside the pet's intestinal tract. The worms may then reproduce and more tapeworms will be present. Intermittently segments of the tapeworm will be passed in the pet's stool and that is usually when owners realize their pets have tapeworms. Special types of deworming medications that are not available over the counter are required to kill the intestinal tapeworms. In addition, placing and maintaining the pet on flea control will present tapeworm infestations in the future.

• What are those long skinny worms that look like spaghetti in my pet's stool called?

The internal parasites that you describe are roundworms. Roundworms are passed to the puppy either while it is in the uterus or after birth while the puppy is nursing. The worms then develop in the puppies intestinal tract and may be either vomited our or passed as worms or eggs in the stool. As the worms can be transmitted to people, it is extremely important to ensure that your puppy is checked for internal parasites and dewormed as necessary. Generally, the deworming process takes at least two treatments of deworming medication and the stool sample should be rechecked following the second deworming to ensure that the parasite has been cleared from the pet's body.

• How does a dog get heartworms? I thought that was only a problem in the southern United States.

Pets (dogs, cats and ferrets) can contract heartworms when a mosquito bites a pet and takes a blood meal. The mosquito would need to be one of several types of mosquitoes and the mosquito would have had to have previously bitten a dog with heartworms. Part of the life cycle of the heartworm is in the mosquito and then further development of the heartworm continues in the dog. The worms will develop and live in the pet's heart. With time, the pet may develop heart failure, as the heart cannot function filled with worms. The heartworm society recommends that if pets are left on heartworm preventative year round, that they be tested every two years for the presence of heartworms. Monthly preventative in areas where heartworms are present is strongly recommended. As the climate of the world is changing, such are the changes in the environment that allows mosquitoes to breed and live in areas where previously they were not able. Hence, at this point in time, heartworms have spread into our area of Southern California and we now recommend blood testing for the presence of heartworms and monthly prevention in dogs.

• My dog found and ate a box of chocolate candy. What do I need to do?

Ingestion of chocolate can lead to death in some pets that ingest chocolate. The amount that the dog ingests and the size of the pet are important. Pets that have recently ingested chocolate should be induced to vomit by a veterinarian. If you come home and find the chocolate ingested but do not know when the pet ate the candy, a trip to your veterinarian for a physical examination of your pet is well warranted.

• What does it mean that my pet is constantly licking his paws?

The most common reason that we see dogs licking their paws, in particular the front paws, is due to inhalant allergies. When people inhale different pollens from plants growing and blowing, people often have runny eyes and a runny nose. In pets with inhalant allergies, instead of runny eyes and a runny nose, pets have itchy skin. One of the common manifestations of this is licking the abdominal area and licking the feet. Allergies such as this are not usually due to contact with the allergen, but due to inhalant of offending agents. As with people and allergies, problems such as this are not curable but potentially treatable. A physical examination with your veterinarian and discussion of the options for your pet is well warranted.

• My cat is unable to urinate and he keeps going back and forth to the litter box. What is wrong with him?

The most common problem, but not the only one, that would cause that presentation is infection or inflammation of the urinary tract. In the worst situation in a male cat, crystals and mucous may form a plug and basically block or prevent the passage of urine from the body through the urethra. As the urethra in the male cat is long and very narrow, that easily occurs. It is quite unusual for this situation to occur in a female cat, as the urethra is short and quiet wide relatively speaking. The urine remains in the body and the cat can quickly become sick and toxic. If the pet is not taken care of quickly the pet may die of uremia, as the toxic waste products produced in the kidneys are not being excreted from the body. An exam for a cat that is straining to urinate and not producing any or much urine is strongly recommended.

• My cat is vomiting hairballs. What do you recommend?

Vomiting can be due to many things in the cat. If indeed you do see hair in the vomitus of your cat, several things can be done. First, the cat is vomiting hair that it is licking from its own body. Hence, more time spent brushing may be of benefit. There are a number of over the counter products such as Laxatone, which can be given to the cat to help the hair conglomerate together and pass through the intestinal tract. These products can be put on the cat's paw to be licked off, mixed into the food, or placed on the cat's lip to be licked off. These products appear to be quite safe and can be given once weekly as maintenance or even daily. There are also several brands of cat food now available that have formulation that include an increased fiber level to aid in the passage of hairballs. These are well-balanced foods and can be fed as the only source of food.

• My cat is scratching at the furniture in my house. I am considering declawing her, is this inhumane?

I personally do not think that declawing a cat is inhumane. I would much rather see a cat safe in someone's home, without claws, then outside and be subjected to kids with pellet guns, cars, coyotes, cat fights and disease, and dogs. We see many, many unnecessary trauma occurring to cats that would simply be avoided if the cat was kept inside. If this requires declawing so that the cat can live in harmony with the other household members, than so be it. When we declaw cats, the cats are under a general anesthesia and receive pain medication. They seem to handle the procedures well.

• My cat keeps spraying on my couch. What can I do?

Most commonly male cats spay urine for territorial and behavioral marking of territory. I would recommend that first you have an examination with your veterinarian including a blood test and urinalysis. If the physical examination and diagnostic tests are within normal range, than you may be dealing with a behavioral problem. If so, there are several medications that sometimes are helpful in controlling the problem. Otherwise, I would suggest use of a spray product called Feliway. We have had great success with this product when cats, both male and female, mark territory.

• Why should I microchip my pet?

Each day pets wander from home, escape through and open gate, and one way or another, become lost. Collars fall off and many pets are never found again. If the pet is picked up and taken to an animal shelter or a veterinary hospital that does have a microchip reader, than once the pet is scanned, the pet can be returned back to you, the owner. A microchip is a small chip that is encoded with a series of numbers that can be traced back to the owner through a central tracking system. Once the owner is identified, the owner can be called and the pet can be reunited with its owner. So, even if you think your pet will not stray from home, accidents happen and this is a safe and inexpensive way to give your pet the best chance of getting back home to you.

• Why should I have a fecal (stool) test done on my pet? I check the stool and I do not see any worms.

Most of the parasites that pets have live in the intestinal tract and are not commonly passed out as a whole worm. The purpose of the stool check is to examine the feces of the pet under the microscope to look for eggs of the parasites. The eggs themselves are microscopic, hence, very small, and cannot be seen with the naked eye. Some of the parasites that pets might have are called protozoa and these may only be a cell in size (very small!). These are parasites but not the wormlike creatures that we think of when we think of intestinal worms, but they still exist and can be present in the pet's stool.

• Should my pet be on flea control?

Fleas are a pesky little parasite that lives on the skin of may warm blooded animals. Fleas bite the pet, walk around on the pet's body and cause a lot of irritation and bother to the pet. These days there are new flea products that make flea control much easier on the pet and easier on the owner to apply or administer. Most of these products are used only on a monthly basis. A once a month application is quite a change form years past when flea control involved baths, dips, and sometimes-daily application of topical insecticides. In our area of Southern California where the climate is warm and nice most of the year, we recommend that pets be on flea control the entire year. For those of you in northern climates, where you have a true winter, flea control will only be necessary in the warm and hot months of the year.

• What flea control is best?

Each veterinary hospital will have different recommendations for flea control. At All Pets Medical Centre, we carry two products, Advantage and Program. Different pets may benefit from one or the other or sometimes use of both of the products, hence I would have to say that there is not one "best" flea product in my mind. Generally, we suggest that most pets be on Program year around and then add Advantage if the pet has an allergy to fleas. Many of our clients add Advantage to their flea control regimes during the summer months and this seems to help greatly.

• Is it ok to free feed my dogs and cats?

The answer to that question all depends on the individual dogs and cats. Many pets do not do well with this system as they overeat and become obese. Once the pet is overweight, weight loss is not an easy task. Hence, as with many situations, prevention is the key. Other pets only eat when hungry and will not become overweight. If you elect to feed your pet set meals rather than free choice, than two meals daily rather than one is best. This way the pet is not hungry a lot of hour in the day.

• When should I have my dog or cat spayed?

We recommend all dogs and cats that are not being bred or showed be spayed. In the past, it was recommended that a dog should go through a first heat cycle prior to spaying. It has since been shown that there is about a 300 time less chance that a dog will develop mammary or breast cancer later in life if the dog is spayed BEFORE the first heat cycle. As dogs generally come into heat between 5 and 10 months of age, we recommend spaying when they are 3 to 4 months of age, so that the pet will be spayed PRIOR to the first heat cycle. Cats should also be spayed 3 to 4 months of age as they can start their heat cycles at 5-6 months of age also. Pets spayed at young ages appear to handle the procedures well and we strongly recommend spaying for both health reasons for the pet in addition to helping with population control.

• Should I do annual blood work on my dog and cat?

Preventive medicine is the key for both our pets and us. The reasons for annual blood work are to uncover sub clinical problems before they are evident. When pets get older, performing blood work twice a year should also be considered.

• I recently noticed a growth on my pet. What should I do?

We recommend that anytime you find a growth on your pet that your pet has a physical examination with your veterinarian. Depending on the type of pet, the age of the pet, the way the tumor looks and feels and how fast it is growing, will determine whether the tumor should be removed or not. Generally speaking, tumors that are rapidly growing should be removed and biopsied.

• Does spaying and neutering a dog or cat cause that pet to gain weight?

For reasons not completely understood, about 50% of dogs and cats that are spayed or neutered will gain weight following the procedure. As with people, exercise and dietary restriction can prevent a pet's weight from becoming a problem.

• At what age should I switch my pet to d senior diet?

Recommendations vary for breed and sizes of dogs as to when to switch a dog to a diet formulated for senior pets. As a general rule, the giant breeds should be switched to a senior food at 7 years of age, and all others at 10 years of age. These numbers are not magic, but as pet ages, their nutritional needs change and hence their diet should change also. Cats should be switched to a senior diet at 10 years of age. Once again, no magic, but that is my recommendation and that of many others.

• My cockatiel lays eggs all the time. I heard that is bad for her. What can I do to discourage the egg laying?

Getting a chronic egg laying bird to stop laying is a challenging task. You will probably need to try multiple things at once. If she has a mate, separate the two birds. If a nest box is present then it should be removed, as it will act as a stimulant for egg production. If she is on a seed diet, try to get her on a commercial pelleted diet. Often times none of these will work and the bird will continue to lay eggs. Currently, we are using a drug called Lupron to help stop egg production. The injection is given once every two weeks for a series of three injections. An older option, but still available is to surgically remove the uterus, which involves spaying the bird.

• My bird is puffed up and sitting on the bottom of the cage, what should I do?

Anytime a bird sits and remains sitting on the bottom of the cage, it has a high chance of having something seriously wrong with it. Birds have strong preservation instincts and they attempt to look as good as they can as long as they can, because out in the wild, some other creature will eat them up. So, whenever a bird sits and stays on the bottom of the cage, it should be offered a source of heat and taken as soon as possible to an avian veterinarian.

• My bird's stool is sometimes runny, should I be worried?

When a bird defecates, three substances can be released. One is the fecal component, which will vary in color depending on what the bird has recently ingested. The second is the urine part, which generally speaking, is a fairly small amount of clear fluid. This of course can vary with the diet fed and the type of bird discussed. The third component of the dropping is the white urate, which is a breakdown product from protein digestion. A large number of factors, including infection, liver problems, kidney problems, and stress, can lead to runny droppings. A physical examination and diagnostic tests with your avian veterinarian are warranted.

• How can I keep my cockatiel from becoming eggbound?

Probably the single most important factor in preventing egg binding in birds is a correct plane of nutrition. This involves the feeding of a well-balanced commercially available pelleted diet with supplementation such as bean mixtures, fresh fruits and vegetables and pasta. If a bird is egg laying, there should also be a source of calcium such as a cuttlebone or mineral block available to the bird. In addition to nutrition, lack of a nest box and lack of a mate, are helpful. If the bird is unable to pass an egg, warm is necessary for the bird until you are able to take her to your avian veterinarian. Egg binding is birds can be a serious and life threatening problem, and as with other conditions, prevention is worth a lot.

• My bird is too loud; can I have his vocal cords removed?

Noise is somewhat normal in a bird and noisy birds sometimes need to have behavioral modification to quiet them down. Sound from a bird is produced in an area called the syrinx, which is actually a modification of the trachea right before it enters the primary bronchi and the lungs. It is thought that sound is produced when air moves several membranes in the syrinx and sets up a vibration.

• Why are non-stick cooking surfaces, such as Teflon, harmful for my bird?

A number of possible household fumes, including Teflon cooked at high temperatures, can be harmful and hazardous to a bird's sensitive respiratory system. Most of us have heard stories of canaries keep in underground mines years ago for an early notification system for the presence of noxious fumes in the mine. If the canary dropped over, then the miners knew that even though they could not smell the fumes, it was time to get out. Hence, in today's household, the bird is still quite sensitive to fumes that you and I may not notice. In the case of Teflon and similar brands in specific, (non-stick cookware coated with PTFE or polytetrafluoroethlene), overheating of the pan can lead to the production of fumes that are harmful to birds. When this type of cookware is heated to around 500( F, these fumes are released. In the case of birds, the bird inhales these fumes, develops sudden changes within the lungs and may die within minutes. Therefore, stocking a household with birds with cooking pots other than those mentioned, and housing the bird far from the kitchen, are well warranted preventive ideas.

• My bird is on a seed diet. Is that a good diet for him?

Seeds, no matter what the combination of the seeds are always a very poor diet for traditional seed eating birds. Seeds are always deficient or excessive in a number of nutrients, including fat, protein, calcium and vitamins. Eating seeds can be compared to eating only fast food and expecting years later to do well and be healthy. It just does not happen. WE strongly recommend that birds be gradually changed to a commercially available pelleted diet. The conversion generally takes about three weeks and is probably the most important thing you can ever do for your bird.

• I've read some about polyomavirus in parrots and the vaccine. Should I vaccinate my bird for polyomavirus?

In my hospital we recommend that birds that have exposure to other parrots be vaccinated to protect against the polyomavirus. This category includes pet and aviary parrots that attend bird shows, go to pet stores, board in any facility that houses other birds, and if the bird visits your friends bird in its house. We do require that parrots that are boarded in our veterinary clinic be currently vaccinated for polyomavirus. The vaccine is given as a two vaccine series, one when you start and the booster 2-4 weeks later. An annual vaccine is required to keep the bird's vaccine status current.

My rabbit has not eaten in three days, should I bring him in?

We would strongly suggest that a rabbit that is not eating be brought into a veterinary clinic that has a veterinarian with a good knowledge of rabbits. One of the most common reasons rabbits do not eat and consequently do not defecate is due to a condition called GI stasis (gastrointestinal). This is a common condition due to inappropriate levels of dietary fiber. Many of the diets on the market today for rabbits have fiber levels around 12%. It has been shown that for house rabbits, a dietary fiber level of 18-24% is needed for proper function of the intestinal tract. SO, what was once thought to be due to hairballs is actually due to a lower than needed dietary fiber level. There are products currently available that do supply the necessary fiber level. These include timothy and oat hay. Other conditions can also lead to loss of appetite and your veterinarian may recommend a diagnostic workup.

• My female rabbit is pulling her hair out on her chest. What is wrong with her?

The most common reason that a female rabbit will pull the hair from her chest or dewlap area is due to nesting behavior. The rabbit may either be pregnant or want to be pregnant. This is a normal occurrence.

• Is it true that the front teeth on rabbits and rodents grow continuously?

Yes, the incisor teeth are the teeth you are referring to and the teeth grow continuously throughout the life of the animal. Normal wear and tear will wear down teeth that are properly aligned. In the situation of malocclusion of the incisors, which is not an uncommon scenario in house rabbits, the rabbit has a genetic trait such that the teeth do not meet and overgrown. These rabbits need intermittent trimming of the teeth. There is also a surgical procedure that extracts these teeth so that the frequent clipping is no longer needed. Rabbits that have had this procedure performed often eat pellets the day following surgery. They seem to have difficulty properly grooming themselves and so help from the human caretaker is often necessary.

• What type of food should I feed my rabbit?

We strongly recommend that house rabbit not be fed feedstuffs containing alfalfa, as they also contain high levels of calcium. This calcium in some rabbits, results in the production of a substance commonly known as "bladder sludge." This thick white calcium precipitate builds up in the urinary bladder and can lead to life threatening urinary problems. We do recommend that rabbits be fed diets that contain other types of grasses including timothy and oat. Offering a rabbit daily free choice timothy or oat hay, a timothy based rabbit pellet with a high fiber level, and fresh vegetables daily, is one of several acceptable ways to correctly feed rabbits.

• My rabbit has occasional sneezing and a runny nose. She has been on several antibiotics and is still not better, why not?

Most likely your rabbit has a chronic infection due to the bacteria Pasteurella. Rabbits are commonly infected when they are in the uterus or after birth from contact with another rabbit that is carrying the infection but is clinically healthy. At this point in time, the infection is not curable, but many rabbits infected with the bacteria, can be treated so that the infection is suppressed and that rabbit appears to be healthy. At some time, the infection most likely will be clinically apparent again. A vaccine for Pasteurella is currently in progress and may one day be available for pet rabbits.

• My female rabbit is not around any male rabbits. Should I still get her spayed?

Yes. Cancer of the uterus is very common in older unspayed rabbits. Having your rabbit spayed before 2 years of age dramatically decreases the chances of developing this cancer. Other reproductive related diseases seen in unspayed female rabbits include endometrial hyperplasia (proliferative tissues of the uterus), uterine polyps, pyometra (infected uterus), and endometritis (inflammed uterus).

• My rat has a lump on her side that just appeared. What do you recommend?

Tumors that are often malignant are a very common occurrence in pet rats. As reported by our clients, they often seem to appear almost overnight. Many of these grow over time and on many occasions; we have seen rats presented for an examination that have tumors several times larger than the rat! We strongly recommend that you consider surgically removing and having a biopsy performed on these lumps. These pets deserve a good quality of life, as do your other pets.

• My guinea pig just had babies, can I pick them up?

Many animals when they first have babies are nervous and anxious even though they may appear normal to you and I. New mothers will often eat or attack their babies when they are bothered too much with new babies. Even though it is exciting to look at and touch the new babies, it is best to give the mother time and privacy. This is also the case with pet mice and rats.

• My rat has a red discharge from his eyes and nostrils and is sneezing. What should I do?

One of the more common situations we see in pet rats is infection with a complex of diseases known as "murine respiratory disease". This complex of diseases is caused by a combination of both bacteria and viruses. Rats are exposed when they are in the uterus or when they are young, and may carry the infection for years without demonstrating clinical signs or may become ill at any time. This complex of diseases is not curable and sometimes it will respond to different types of antimicrobial medications. A consult with your veterinarian that is knowledgeable about rats is well warranted.

• My snake is not eating for three months. What is wrong with him?

Snakes may stop eating for a variety of reasons. Sometimes, the environment is incorrect and sometimes the snake may have one of many medical problems. A physical examination by a veterinarian knowledgeable about reptiles, with a discussion of your husbandry is needed.

• What should I feed my iguana?

We recommend that iguanas be fed a combination of fresh vegetables and commercially available iguana food. I prefer at this time the pelleted or mash versions of iguana food. I recommend that the pelleted foods be available free choice at all times and comprise about 75% of the ingested diet. A variety of leafy green vegetables excluding iceberg lettuce are acceptable. I find that iguanas do not thrive on diets of vegetables only.

• Should I feed my snake live prey?

It is strongly recommended that snakes be fed stunned or dead prey. This is because often times the prey, which may be a rat or mouse, will not be immediately ingested and the prey then attacks the snake. We have seen many debilitated snakes presented for rodent attacks. The rats generally chew on the backbone area of the snake and the entire area becomes very infected. If you insist on feeding live prey to a snake, you must stay with the snake until the prey is eaten. If the snake does not immediately eat the prey, then remove it and try again in a week.

• If my iguanas tail break off will it grow back?

Once an iguanas tail snaps off, which is often a defensive measure to detract a predator, the tail will slowly regenerate to some degree. The new tail will be of a smaller diameter than the original tail but will function ok as a tail. The open surface of the tail, once broken off, can be cleaned but no additional treatment is needed.

• Does my pet bearded dragon need a Vita- Light or other brand of ultraviolet light?

Reptiles such as snakes and tegus that ingest whole prey items for food, are obtaining a complete diet in their food and it is thought that these reptiles do not require a source of ultraviolet light. Many other species of reptiles including your beardie need the ultraviolet light to convert the vitamin D in their diets to a useable form. Vitamin D is necessary so that calcium can be absorbed from the system. It generally is recommended that the ultraviolet light source be no more than two or three feet from the reptile. It should either be on a schedule of 12 hours on and 12 hours off, or on a schedule of 10 hours off in the winter months and 14 hours on. It is thought that every 6 months the light should be replaced as even though the light is shining, the amount of ultraviolet light in the B spectrum, which is what is needed, has greatly decreased. Even better than an artificial source of ultraviolet light, is the real thing, the sun. Controlled exposure to the sun should also be considered for your reptiles.

• How often should I feed my snake?

Feeding recommendations for snakes vary. Depending on how quickly you would like the snake to grow and the snakes interest in eating, will determine how often your snake should be fed. Feeding intervals of weekly to once every three weeks are commonly employed. It is important that your snake defecates or goes to the bathroom, prior to the next feeding.

All Pets Medical Centre/Rolling Oak Aviaries

What are the fundamental principles of the Animal Rights (AR) movement?

What are the fundamental principles of the Animal Rights (AR) movement?
The fundamental principle of the AR movement is that nonhuman animals deserve to live according to their own natures, free from harm, abuse, and exploitation. This goes further than just saying that we should treat animals well while we exploit them, or before we kill and eat them. It says animals have the RIGHT to be free from human cruelty and exploitation, just as humans possess this right. The withholding of this right from the nonhuman animals based on their species membership is referred to as "speciesism".
Animal rights activists try to extend the human circle of respect and compassion beyond our species to include other animals, who are also capable of feeling pain, fear, hunger, thirst, loneliness, and kinship. When we try to do this, many of us come to the conclusion that we can no longer support factory farming, vivisection, and the exploitation of animals for entertainment. At the same time, there are still areas of debate among animal rights supporters, for example, whether ANY research that harms animals is ever justified, where the line should be drawn for enfranchising species with rights, on what occasions civil disobedience may be appropriate, etc. However, these areas of potential disagreement do not negate the abiding principles that join us: compassion and concern for the pain and suffering of nonhumans.
One main goal of this FAQ is to address the common justifications that arise when we become aware of how systematically our society abuses and exploits animals. Such "justifications" help remove the burden from our consciences, but this FAQ attempts to show that they do not excuse the harm we cause other animals. Beyond the scope of this FAQ, more detailed arguments can be found in three classics of the AR literature.
The Case for Animal Rights, Tom Regan (ISBN 0-520-05460-1)
In Defense of Animals, Peter Singer (ISBN 0-06-097044-8)
Animal Liberation, Peter Singer (ISBN 0-380-71333-0, 2nd Ed.)
While appreciating the important contributions of Regan and Singer, many animal rights activists emphasize the role of empathetic caring as the actual and most appropriate fuel for the animal rights movement in contradistinction to Singer's and Regan's philosophical rationales. To the reader who says "Why should I care?", we can point out the following reasons:
One cares about minimizing suffering.
One cares about promoting compassion in human affairs.
One is concerned about improving the health of humanity.
One is concerned about human starvation and malnutrition.
One wants to prevent the radical disruption of our planet's ecosystem.
One wants to preserve animal species.
One wants to preserve wilderness.

The connections between these issues and the AR agenda may not be obvious. Please read on as we attempt to clarify this.

"The day may come when the rest of the animal creation may acquire those rights which never could have been withholden from them but by the hand of tyranny."
"Life is life--whether in a cat, or dog or man. There is no difference there between a cat or a man. The idea of difference is a human conception for man's own advantage..."
"Non-violence leads to the highest ethics, which is the goal of all evolution. Until we stop harming all other living beings, we are still savages."
"The time will come when men such as I will look upon the murder of animals as they now look on the murder of men."

Animal Rights vs. Animal Welfare : Introduction

Animal Rights vs. Animal Welfare
Animal Rights and Animal Welfare: Introduction
Animal Rights Versus Animal Welfare
Animal welfare theories accept that animals have interests, but allow these interests to be traded away as long as there are some human benefits that are thought to justify that sacrifice. Animal rights means that animals, like humans, have interests that cannot be sacrificed or traded away simply because it might benefit others. The rights position does not hold that rights are absolute; an animal's rights, just like those of humans, must be limited, and rights can certainly conflict. Animal rights means that animals are not ours to use for food, clothing, entertainment, or to experiment on. Animal welfare allows these uses as long as humane guidelines are followed.
The Animal Welfare movement acknowledges the suffering of nonhumans and attempts to reduce that suffering through "humane" treatment, but it does not have as a goal elimination of the use and exploitation of animals. The Animal Rights movement goes significantly further by rejecting the exploitation of animals and according them rights in that regard. A person committed to animal welfare might be concerned that cows get enough space, proper food, etc., but would not necessarily have any qualms about killing and eating cows, so long as the rearing and slaughter are "humane".
The Animal Welfare movement is represented by such organizations as the Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals, and the Humane Society.
Having said this, it should be realized that some hold a broader interpretation of the AR movement. They would argue that the AW groups do, in fact, support rights for animals (e.g., a dog has the right not to be kicked). Under this interpretation, AR is viewed as a broad umbrella covering the AW and strict AR groups. This interpretation has the advantage of moving AR closer to the mainstream. Nevertheless, there is a valid distinction between the AW and AR groups, as described in the first paragraph.
Animal Liberation (AL) is, for many people, a synonym for Animal Rights (but see below). Some people prefer the term "liberation" because it brings to mind images of other successful liberation movements, such as the movement for liberation of slaves and liberation of women, whereas the term "rights" often encounters resistance when an attempt is made to apply it to nonhumans. The phrase "Animal Liberation" became popular with the publication of Peter Singer's classic book of the same name.
This use of the term liberation should be distinguished from the literal meaning discussed in question #88, i.e., an Animal Liberationist is not necessarily one who engages in forceful civil disobedience or unlawful actions.
Finally, intellectual honesty compels us to acknowledge that the account given here is rendered in broad strokes (but is at least approximately correct), and purposely avoids describing ongoing debate about the meaning of the terms "Animal Rights", "Animal Liberation", and "Animal Welfare", debate about the history of these movements, and debate about the actual positions of the prominent thinkers. To depict the flavor of such debates, the following text describes one coherent position. Naturally, it will be attacked from all sides!
Some might suggest that a subtle distinction can be made between the Animal Liberation and Animal Rights movements. The Animal Rights movement, at least as propounded by Regan and his adherents, is said to require total abolition of such practices as experimentation on animals. The Animal Liberation movement, as propounded by Singer and his adherents, is said to reject the absolutist view and assert that in some cases, such experimentation can be morally defensible. Because such cases could also justify some experiments on humans, however, it is not clear that the distinction described reflects a difference between the liberation and rights views, so much as it does a broader difference of ethical theory, i.e., absolutism versus utilitarianism.
Historically, animal welfare groups have attempted to improve the lot of animals in society. They worked against the popular Western concept of animals as lacking souls and not being at all worthy of any ethical consideration. The animal rights movement set itself up as an abolitionist alternative to the reform-minded animal welfarists. As the animal rights movement has become larger and more influential, the animal exploiters have finally been forced to respond to it. Perhaps inspired by the efforts of Tom Regan to distinguish AR from AW, industry groups intent on maintaining the status quo have embraced the term "animal welfare". Pro-vivisection, hunting, trapping, agribusiness, and animal entertainment groups now refer to themselves as "animal welfare" supporters. Several umbrella groups whose goal is to defend these practices have also arisen.
This classic case of public-relations doublespeak acknowledges the issue of cruelty to animals in name only, while allowing for the continued use and abuse of animals. The propaganda effect is to stigmatize animal rights supporters as being extreme while attempting to portray themselves as the reasonable moderates. Nowadays, the cause of "animal welfare" is invoked by the animal industry at least as often as it is used by animal protection groups.